NFL Players Score Big at ICE’s Culinary & Hospitality Management Seminar

By Cindi Avila

The average career of a football player is only said to be a little more than three years. So what is a player to do after his days on the gridiron are over? Many want to open a restaurant and some even want to open their own hotel. With all that in mind the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) hosted 21 current and former professional football players for a NFL Hospitality and Culinary Management Workshop. On May 6^th the players (and some of their wives) gathered to learn from the best in the business. Steve Zagor, the dean of ICE’s Business Management programs led the all day program. Zagor says “it was a great opportunity to give NFL players a preview into life after their pro football careers, as a restaurant owner or investor/operator in the hospitality world.”

21 current and past NFL players attended the Culinary and Hospitality Management Workshop.

Current players including Jason Avant (Eagles), Terrence McGee (free agent) and David Caldwell (Giants) and Jahri Evans (Saints) took part. Five of the participants were past Pro Bowl level players. Chef-Instructor Chad Pagano led one of the demonstrations for the players and said they were like “kids in a candy store. I was truly amazed by their level of participation. The quality of their questions was extraordinary.”

Will Smith and Jason Avant listen intently to Stephen Zagor’s introductory presentation.

ICE culinary instructors, including Vin McCann, Kate Edwards, Anthony Caporale, Ted Siegel and others, all experts in their respective fields, gave the players a taste of what diploma students at ICE learn. Overall, the focus was more on the business and management side of restaurants including location, leasing, concept development, marketing, customer service, catering, controlling food costs, and how to be profitable.

Part of ICE’s management program is offer a steady stream of guest speakers and experts. NFL day was no exception. President and CEO of Rosa Mexicano, Howard Greenstone, was one of the keynote speakers. Greenstone entertained and educated the players with anecdotes from his long career path which has lead to the present, where he runs a 16-unit national restaurant group with over $75 million in revenue.

Howard Greenstone shared his industry expertise with the NFL players in attendance.

Howard Greenstone shared his industry expertise at the workshop.

In the morning, the group briefly heard from Rick Smilow, ICE’s President / CEO since 1995. As an entrepreneur with broad insight into restaurants and other businesses, Smilow made the point “ that while certainly opening and running a successful restaurant was a challenge, it is still the type of enterprise where one can walk-the-floor and control. That contrasts with so many other types of businesses, where your business success or failure is so dependent on factors you cannot control.”

Some of these players were also interested to hear what it takes to run a hotel or lodging establishment. This is the focus of ICE’s newest diploma program, Hospitality Management. The guest speaker for this segment of the day was John Moser, Chief Marketing Officer for the 15-unit Denihan Hospitality Group.

Chef Instructor James Briscione shares his seasonal recipe for succotash with Babatunde Oshinowo and Adalius Thomas.

ICE Chef-Instructor James Briscione says he was impressed with the passion and excitement from the players over the course of the day. He commented that “their passion and questions would make one think they were full-time students here.” Briscione also thinks the players have what it takes to succeed in this growing industry, “they are used to long, hard hours. They aren’t afraid to work hard, and on top of that, they know about team-work.”

For the NFL, this day at ICE was part of a bigger initiative to offer current and past players insight into career options after football. Past workshops have been in other fields include real estate, acting and broadcast / media.

After the program, players filled out evaluations on their day at ICE. One participant wrote: “The program literally has turned my perspective and approach as to how I will invest and run my business. The course gets an A+ !”

NFL_ICE_33

May 2013

April 2013

March 2013

February 2013

January 2013

December 2012

November 2012

October 2012

September 2012

August 2012

July 2012

June 2012

May 2012

April 2012

March 2012

February 2012

January 2012

December 2011

November 2011

October 2011

September 2011

August 2011

July 2011

June 2011

May 2011

April 2011

March 2011

February 2011

January 2011

December 2010

November 2010

October 2010

September 2010

August 2010

July 2010

June 2010

May 2010

April 2010

March 2010

February 2010

January 2010

December 2009

November 2009

October 2009

2013 James Beard Awards

By Carly DeFilippo

Last night, ICE students and recent graduates cooked with the culinary stars at the James Beard Awards. Among the hundreds of volunteer opportunities we organize each year, these annual awards stand out as one of the most exciting, providing students with the chance to cook alongside such influential chefs as Grant Achatz, Michael Mina and Marcus Samuelsson.

ICE President Rick Smilow and Culinary Relations Manager Virginia Monaco pose with a trio of hardworking student volunteers.

Often referred to as the “Oscars of food”, these annual awards are among the most elite honors in the culinary field. This year’s theme was, fittingly, “Lights, Camera, Taste”, a celebration of the long-standing relationship between food and film. The sentiment was perhaps best expressed by Outstanding Restauranteur winner, Maguy Le Coze, who exclaimed, “Let’s say it; it’s Hollywood now!”

The event was held at Lincoln Center’s Avery Fisher Hall, overlooking the famous plaza of the performing arts center.

Each dish at the awards gala reception was inspired by cinema, with such inventive offerings as Grant Achatz’s “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea Cocktail”, which required giant fish tanks of seaweed-infused liquor. But the most talked about dish of the evening seemed to be Nate Appleman’s “Royale with Cheese”, an upscale slider that sated the discerning palates of the industry attendees.

Student Jonathan Horn cooked alongside Chef Nate Appleman, preparing the event’s most buzzed-about dish.

It was a thrill to see our students’ excitement at serving such celebrated personalities as Martha Stewart, Jacques Pépin, and Daniel Boulud. The evening’s plates surpassed the challenging setting, and we are extremely proud of all the ICE volunteers who helped make the event a success.

Student Jenny Wong helped prepare Chef Aarón Sánchez’s Lamb Enchiladas with Mole Negro.

Congratulations to all of this year’s winners, and thank you to the James Beard Foundation for yet another memorable ceremony. We look forward to cooking with you again next year!

May 2013

April 2013

March 2013

February 2013

January 2013

December 2012

November 2012

October 2012

September 2012

August 2012

July 2012

June 2012

May 2012

April 2012

March 2012

February 2012

January 2012

December 2011

November 2011

October 2011

September 2011

August 2011

July 2011

June 2011

May 2011

April 2011

March 2011

February 2011

January 2011

December 2010

November 2010

October 2010

September 2010

August 2010

July 2010

June 2010

May 2010

April 2010

March 2010

February 2010

January 2010

December 2009

November 2009

October 2009

Live Blog: NFL Hospitality and Culinary Management Workshop

By Carly DeFilippo

6:10 PM

Moving from savory to sweet, Chef Chad Pagano demonstrated the difference between making dessert at home and for a crowd. Inviting Martin Rucker and Herb Taylor to whip up a batch of chocolate mousse, he added gelatin and simple syrup to the standard recipe, and explained the persuasive power of pastry in a restaurant’s marketing plan.

Chef Chad Pagano whips up chocolate mousse with Martin Rucker and Herb Taylor.

5:40 PM

To finish up the long day of learning, we treated our NFL guests to a duo of cooking demos with Chefs James Briscione and Chad Pagano. James recruited Babatunde Oshinowo and Adalius Thomas to help him revive his southern roots, preparing a seasonal succotash dish.

Chef James Briscione prepares southern succotash with Babatunde Oshinowo and Adalius Thomas.

5:10 PM

For the day’s final lecture session, our entire Culinary Management faculty came together for a passion-filled panel and Q&A session. The core message was this: “Don’t be comfortably mediocre.” Define the mission statement of your business and invest time in recruiting staff who live and breath those core values. “Think about the team you were on that most motivated you. Those qualities are the same that will make a positive work environment in the service industry.”

The ICE Culinary Management faculty join forces for an end of day panel.

4:20 PM

Shaking things up, resident ICE mixologist, Anthony Caporale, shared the secrets behind “shrinkage”—in particular, bar theft. A veteran bartender, Caporale has witnessed every scam in the trade, from over-pouring to padding the tip jar. When it comes to hiring staff, he warned, “What I want in a bartender is someone who can count. If he/she can’t count, than that person isn’t a bartender, but a drink mixer.” To ensure the message hit home, Caporale recruited players to run a simple bar scam.

Anthony Caporale teaches former NFL linebacker, Eric Alexander, how to run a bar scam.

3:40 PM

After lunch, Hospitality Consultant John Moser presented an overview of the hotel industry. The NFL players were shocked to learn that, due to the labor set-up in hotels, pricey room service creates very little or no revenue. They also gained perspective on roles that are often under-appreciated, such as that of maid service, which Moser called one of the most difficult jobs in America.

John Moser shares his insider perspective on the hospitality business.

2:15 PM

During a delicious lunch, prepared by ICE Chef Instructors (and football fans) James Briscione and Chad Pagano, our NFL students were treated to a keynote speech by CEO of Rosa Mexicano, Howard Greenstone. A veteran of the restaurant industry and former college athlete, Greenstone shared his successes and failures on and off the field. Of his many resonant points, two stood out in particular. First, don’t micro-manage your staff. Referencing Chef Ted’s earlier demo, Greenstone, stated, “You shouldn’t be in the kitchen chopping up steaks unless you’re the chef.” He also reminded players that, while it’s great to love the business, ultimately those who are successful are in it to make money as well.

Howard Greenstone shares his professional wisdom with NFL workshop students.

Chef Instructors James Briscione and Chad Pagano prepared a delicious lunch for our guests from the NFL.

1:08 PM

In the morning session, the players learned about the four major products of any restaurant business—food, service, design/environment, and “sizzle”—and considered the different types of business opportunities available in the culinary and hospitality industry. They then dove into the details of financing a restaurant and elements of a successful business plan.

Terrence McGee and Larry Tripplett with Dean of Culinary Management Stephen Zagor

Switching things up, the players headed to our demo kitchen, where they learned about the economics of food waste with Chef Instructor Ted Siegel. To demonstrate his point, Chef Ted broke down a boneless beef loin, one of the most expensive cuts of meat.

Chef Instructor Ted Seigel shows Jason Avant and Will Smith how to break down a boneless beef loin.

10:11 AM

This morning, we welcomed 21 current and past NFL players and their wives to ICE for a one day Hospitality and Culinary Management Workshop. From attendees already working in the culinary industry—one retired player owns his own wine label, while another works as a chef—to current players getting a head start on a future career, the group represented a diverse range of interests and passions. Introductions revealed the extracurricular talents of the group, from photography to writing to music, with enough brass players to form a formidable horn section.

martin rucker - vincent rey - babatunde oshinowo

Martin Rucker, Vincent Rey and Babtunde Oshinowo listen to Stephen Zagor’s lecture.

ICE Dean of Culinary Management, Stephen Zagor, kicked things off with a quick restaurant quiz. Players were surprised to learn that it isn’t a “love of food” that launches most culinary management careers – rather, it’s the fact that working in the food industry “looks like fun”. Undercapitalization is the biggest pitfall for new restaurants, whereas guests rate cleanliness as the most important aspect of a food business. As for the fabled statement that “90% of restaurants fail in their first year”, Zagor revealed that, in fact, 50% of restaurants survive their first two years of business.

Will Smith and Jason Avant learn the ins and outs of financing a food business.

May 2013

April 2013

March 2013

February 2013

January 2013

December 2012

November 2012

October 2012

September 2012

August 2012

July 2012

June 2012

May 2012

April 2012

March 2012

February 2012

January 2012

December 2011

November 2011

October 2011

September 2011

August 2011

July 2011

June 2011

May 2011

April 2011

March 2011

February 2011

January 2011

December 2010

November 2010

October 2010

September 2010

August 2010

July 2010

June 2010

May 2010

April 2010

March 2010

February 2010

January 2010

December 2009

November 2009

October 2009

Chefs Collaborative 20th Anniversary and Cookbook Launch

By Carly DeFilippo

This week, the New York culinary community celebrated the 20th anniversary of Chefs Collaborative, the leading national nonprofit network of chefs invested in creating a more sustainable food landscape. ICE hosted the cookbook launch for the collaborative’s 2013 publication, featuring recipes from such renowned chefs as Dan Barber, Rick Bayless, Mary Sue Milliken, and Ethan Stowell.

A selection of chefs from across the country prepared a local, seasonal feast, featuring their recipes from the book. ICE students cooked alongside these culinary all-stars, preparing dishes such as Matthew Weingarten’s whey-poached triggerfish or Piper Davis’ Oregon filbert and honey tart.

ICE grad Seohyung Im and Chef Caroline Fidanza of Brooklyn’s Saltie

ICE students helped prepare Andrea Reusing’s savory custard (Lantern).

Also in attendance was Ellen Jackson, who authored the 2013 cookbook in cooperation with the organization’s member chefs. In total, the text features 115 sustainable recipes, as well as dedicated sections addressing the benefits of organic products, baking with whole grains, sourcing sustainable fish, the comparative quality of frozen meat, and more.

ICE President Rick Smilow, Ellen Jackson and Michael Leviton (Area Four; Lumiere)

We were also thrilled to see alumni working toward a more sustainable food industry, such as Sydney Schwarz of Sea to Table, as well as other members of the extended ICE family, like Chefs Advisory Council member Michael Anthony.

Sydney Schwarz, Michael Anthony (Gramercy Tavern) and Seth Caswell (Bon Appetit Management Company)

Thank you to all the members of the Chefs Collaborative who helped make this event a success. It was our pleasure to celebrate your 20th anniversary and cookbook launch, and we look forward to continuing to support your efforts toward a more sustainable food industry.

May 2013

April 2013

March 2013

February 2013

January 2013

December 2012

November 2012

October 2012

September 2012

August 2012

July 2012

June 2012

May 2012

April 2012

March 2012

February 2012

January 2012

December 2011

November 2011

October 2011

September 2011

August 2011

July 2011

June 2011

May 2011

April 2011

March 2011

February 2011

January 2011

December 2010

November 2010

October 2010

September 2010

August 2010

July 2010

June 2010

May 2010

April 2010

March 2010

February 2010

January 2010

December 2009

November 2009

October 2009

11th Annual Allagash Scholarship Competition

By Virginia Monaco

Last night, ICE was thrilled to host the 11^th annual “Cookin’ with Allagash” Scholarship competition. It was a wonderful night filled with great food, delicious beers and generous prizes!

Every year, Allagash brewery in Maine selects one brew from its portfolio to inspire ICE’s professional culinary students as they craft original recipes to feature and pair with the beer. This year they chose their ultra-rare Coolship Resurgam, a gueuze-style beer blended from spontaneously fermented lambics and cask aged for three years. Because of these Belgian roots, students were asked to create a modern Belgian-inspired that featured the unique sour and citrus qualities of the beer.

After receiving dozens of great student entries, three recipes rose to top, and those students were chosen to participate in a live cook-off to determine the winner! This year’s competitors were:

John Feingold, “CoolShip Poached Lobster with Parsnip Frites, Poppy Seed Mayonnaise and Grilled Belgian Endive”
Munah Gomes. “Resurgam Battered Double Fried Chicken, Potato Waffles with CoolShip Maple Sauce and Glazed Brussels Sprouts Coleslaw”
Katherine Buckley, “Sautéed Duck Breasts with Coolship Resurgam, Braised Red Cabbage and Herbed Goat Cheese Crepes”

Ivy Stark, Michael Laiskonis, James Simpkins and Josh Bernstein

The dishes were judged by ICE’s own Creative Director, Michael Laiskonis; ICE alumna and Executive Chef of Dos Caminos, Ivy Stark; author of The Allagash Cookbook, James Simpkins; and beer expert Josh Bernstein. The students performed beautifully in front of an eager audience and the judge’s scores were the tightest in memory. In the end, Katherine’s duck dish brought home the $2,000 scholarship, with Munah taking home $1,000 and John $500.

Katherine Buckley receives the $2,000 grand prize scholarship from Allagash founder Rob Tod

Congratulations to all the students competitors on their inspired and skilled cooking. We look forward to welcoming Allagash at ICE for years to come!

May 2013

April 2013

March 2013

February 2013

January 2013

December 2012

November 2012

October 2012

September 2012

August 2012

July 2012

June 2012

May 2012

April 2012

March 2012

February 2012

January 2012

December 2011

November 2011

October 2011

September 2011

August 2011

July 2011

June 2011

May 2011

April 2011

March 2011

February 2011

January 2011

December 2010

November 2010

October 2010

September 2010

August 2010

July 2010

June 2010

May 2010

April 2010

March 2010

February 2010

January 2010

December 2009

November 2009

October 2009

IACP 2013: San Francisco

By Rick Smilow

Last week, four members of the ICE New York team attended the International Association of Culinary Professionals’ (IACP) annual conference in San Francisco. The organization, founded in 1987, boasts more than 3,000 members in 32 countries, ranging from chefs and culinary instructors to food media professionals, cookbook authors, culinary entrepreneurs and food policy advocates. It was a pleasure to see several dozen ICE alumni in attendance and, in particular, at least seven ICE alumni serving as speakers or resources at the event.

Our team enjoying the IACP host party at San Francisco’s Ferry Building.

One of the most anticipated aspects of the conference was the annual awards, acknowledging a range of achievements, from exemplary cookbooks to humanitarian efforts. We are proud to report that ICE won the 2013 Award of Excellence for “Cooking School of the Year”, our fourth IACP award in the last ten years.

Kate McCue, Director of Recreational Programs accepts the “Cooking School of the Year” award on behalf of ICE.

Among the other award winners was ICE alum Maxime Bilet, who took home a cookbook award in the “Food & Beverage: Technical Reference” category, for Modernist Cuisine at Home. Max was also on the opening day keynote panel with Chef Thomas Keller and author Peter Kaminsky, discussing “Dirt, Digital and the Future of Food”. Interestingly, the panel moderator was Ann McBride, former ICE Communications Director and co-author of my Culinary Careers book.

Maxime Bilet, Thomas Keller and Peter Stabinsky

Maxime Bilet, Thomas Keller and Peter Kaminsky

Among the other conference highlights was an intimate after-party for ICE alum and friends at Two Sisters Bar and Books, a new bar/bistro opened by ICE alumni Mikha Diaz and Michal Cecconi. Guests included famed author/PBS food expert Joanne Weir and test kitchen expert Suzanne Barr.

Joanne Weir; ICE Director of Recreational Programs, Kate McCue;

Joanne Weir, Kate McCue and Mikha Diaz

The conference had a strong food media focus, and we were very excited to see ICE alumni leading the discussion. Notably, Jamie Tiampo (SeeFood Media) presented “The New World of Web TV”, Catherine McCord (Weelicious.com) asked “Can Video + Cookbook = Profit?”, Sarah Copeland (Food Director – Real Simple) explored our “Permission to Post, Print or Pin” and author Jody Eddy shared her secrets for “How to Really Get Into a Restaurant” as a writer.

ICE alums Sarah Copeland and Catherine McCord

ICE alumni Sarah Copeland and Catherine McCord

Of course, a trip to the bay are would not be complete without lots of good eating and exploration of up and coming food trends. Saturday, I took a unique culinary tour of Oakland, where we met a range of the neighborhood’s newest and most innovative chefs, who spoke to us over beer at the Linden Street Brewery. Highlights of the tour included visits to artisanal producers Blue Bottle Coffee, Two Mile Wines and City Slicker Farms.

Blue Bottle’s Oakland facilities; The next generation of Oakland chefs

Back in San Francisco, two restaurants won over the “ICE critics”: Rich Table and Bar Tartine. In particular, the opportunity to meet the latter’s young, innovative chef, Nicolaus Balla, was an exciting view into the local, sustainable food movement and the creative minds that will lead the culinary field in the years to come.

May 2013

April 2013

March 2013

February 2013

January 2013

December 2012

November 2012

October 2012

September 2012

August 2012

July 2012

June 2012

May 2012

April 2012

March 2012

February 2012

January 2012

December 2011

November 2011

October 2011

September 2011

August 2011

July 2011

June 2011

May 2011

April 2011

March 2011

February 2011

January 2011

December 2010

November 2010

October 2010

September 2010

August 2010

July 2010

June 2010

May 2010

April 2010

March 2010

February 2010

January 2010

December 2009

November 2009

October 2009

Raising a Glass to NYC’s “Choice Eats”

By Carly DeFilippo

Last week, the ICE team had the pleasure of collaborating with the Village Voice to produce one of the city’s most anticipated tasting events: Choice Eats. More than 50 of the city’s top restaurants set up shop in the historic 69th Regiment Armory, as eager eaters lined up around the block.

Inside the main tasting hall at Choice Eats

ICE was on site, serving up Moroccan spiced lamb meatballs, talking knife skills and toting tasting glasses. We’re happy to report, no one went hungry or thirsty.

ICE knife skills expert Brendan McDermott and recreational program manager Susan Streit serve up Moroccan meatballs.

choiceeats_4

We were also excited to see members of the extended ICE family on site. Chef’s Advisory Council member Bill Telepan offered refined picnic fare: liverwurst on mini choux paste buns. Alum Marc Murphy’s team represented Ditch Plains with an inventive spin on comfort food. And alum Sara Dima of 606 R&D served up a delicious cup of “Poor Man’s Fondue”.

Bill Telepan serves liverwurst on choux paste buns.

Hotdogs topped with macaroni and cheese from Ditch Plains

Sara Dima’s “poor man’s fondue”

All in all, it was a satisfying evening for all who attended – but even moreso for the winners of two ICE recreational class giveaways: a knife skills class for 12 and a $100 giftcard toward any recreational class. We look forward to hosting the lucky winners soon!

To keep tabs on more exciting recreational cooking events at ICE, sign up for our listserve.

May 2013

April 2013

March 2013

February 2013

January 2013

December 2012

November 2012

October 2012

September 2012

August 2012

July 2012

June 2012

May 2012

April 2012

March 2012

February 2012

January 2012

December 2011

November 2011

October 2011

September 2011

August 2011

July 2011

June 2011

May 2011

April 2011

March 2011

February 2011

January 2011

December 2010

November 2010

October 2010

September 2010

August 2010

July 2010

June 2010

May 2010

April 2010

March 2010

February 2010

January 2010

December 2009

November 2009

October 2009

The 17th Annual Calvados Cocktail Competition

Last night, five ICE students competed head-to-head in the 17th Annual Calvados Nouvelle Vogue International Trophies. Hailing from the Culinary and Hospitality Management programs, the students were given the unique opportunity to train with Anthony Caporale, renown beverage expert and ICE Mixologist and Beverage Instructor.

Craig Joseph, Carol Arciniegas, Anthony Caporale, Edward Dickman, Anthony Causi and Ellen Richards

The competition was held at the Intercontinental New York Hotel’s Barclay Bar, the first Calvados bar in the country, boasting more than thirty types of this traditional French brandy. From cream to chocolate, thai basil to jalapenos, the range of cocktails presented by the students truly demonstrated the spirit’s fruit-driven versatility.

Professionals from the New York Chapter of the US Bartenders’ Guild competed alongside the students, vying for the chance to compete in the Calvados Cocktail finals this April in Normandy, France.

Craig Joseph strains his ginger-inspired Calvados cocktail.

Craig Joseph pours his winning Calvados cocktail.

Culinary Management student Craig Joseph took home the prize with “The Normandy”. We look forward to seeing Craig at the finals in France and congratulate all the competitors on their impressive bartending skills!

“The Normandy”

The Normandy

By Craig Joseph

In a mixing glass, muddle:
2 pieces of fresh peeled Ginger
1 strip of fresh Orange Zest
3.5 cl Sweetened Fresh Lemon Juice
1.5 cl Cherry Bitters
0.1 cl Cinnamon (powdered)
Fill mixing glass with ice and add 6 cl Calvados.
Shake until the tin is frosted.
Double-strain into a chilled martini glass.
Garnish with a cinnamon stick and peeled ginger slice.

May 2013

April 2013

March 2013

February 2013

January 2013

December 2012

November 2012

October 2012

September 2012

August 2012

July 2012

June 2012

May 2012

April 2012

March 2012

February 2012

January 2012

December 2011

November 2011

October 2011

September 2011

August 2011

July 2011

June 2011

May 2011

April 2011

March 2011

February 2011

January 2011

December 2010

November 2010

October 2010

September 2010

August 2010

July 2010

June 2010

May 2010

April 2010

March 2010

February 2010

January 2010

December 2009

November 2009

October 2009

“Real Southern Cooking” with Cynthia Graubart and Nathalie Dupree

By Carly DeFilippo

Renown chefs Nathalie Dupree and Cynthia Graubart know a thing or two about southern cuisine. In Dupree’s 40-year career, she has authored twelve cookbooks (for which she won two James Beard Awards) and hosted over 300 culinary television shows. Graubart was the television producer for Dupree’s New Southern Cooking, and went on to pen two of her own cookbooks before the pair joined forces as writers. With the 2012 release of the 720-page Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking, these dynamic chefs have yet again demonstrated their expertise, publishing the most comprehensive text on the region’s culinary traditions since Mrs. S.R. Dull’s Southern Cooking (1928).

southern

This week, Dupree and Graubart joined the ICE community to discuss “Real Southern Cooking” and to share their top tips for regional culinary staples. To begin, Dupree described the diverse ethnic communities – from Italian, to Jewish, Chinese and African -that shaped what we today call “southern” cuisine. “All food in America is fusion food,” Dupree explained, pointing to the much lauded Carolina Gold rice that originated from grains transported by international trade. That said, there are certain dishes that Dupree disclaimed as inauthentically southern – most notably, peach pie and fried chicken and waffles.

One regional delicacy both chefs heartily approve of is the biscuit, on which they previously penned an exhaustive guide, Southern Biscuits (2011). Their essential tips for the perfect biscuit:

First and foremost, do a toast test. No one’s oven is perfect, and you can evaluate the way yours works by watching the toasting patterns of a sheet pan of white bread in a very hot oven. This will help you know where to place and when you will need to rotate the items you bake.
Use a soft wheat flour, like White Lily. You can order it online, or it may be sold at Balducci’s or Fairway in New York City.
It’s important to mix the dough in a low, wide bowl, so as not to overdevelop the gluten in the flour.
No recipe that includes flour is exact, so adapt ratios as necessary to achieve the desired consistency.
Most beginners ruin their biscuits by adding too much flour. The dough should stick to your fingers and remain very pliable.
Don’t knead the dough. Pat it into a mound and then fold it. If using a plastic cutting mat, you can fold the mat itself to maneuver the dough, creating creases that will flake when baked.
When cutting biscuits, do not twist the cutter. Simply press down and lift up.
When baking biscuits, crowd the pan to achieve a more tender, moister biscuit.

(Photo Credit: CynthiaGraubart.com)

Very Beginner’s Cream Biscuits

Makes 12 to 16 (2-inch) biscuits

2 1/4 cups self-rising flour
1 1/4 cups heavy cream
Butter, softened or melted, for finishing

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Select a larger baking pan for crispier biscuits, or a smaller pan for more tender biscuits. (Whether or not air can circulate around the biscuits determines their texture. Graubart and Dupree prefer small cake or loaf pans.)
Fork-sift or whisk 2 cups of flour in a large bowl, and set aside the 1/4 cup. Make a deep hollow in the center of the flour with the back of your hand. Pour 1 cup of cream, reserving 1/4 cup cream into the hollow, and stir with a rubber spatula or large metal spoon, using broad circular strokes to quickly pull the flour into the cream.
Mix until the dry ingredients are moistened and the sticky dough begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl. If there is some flour remaining on the bottom and sides of the bowl, stir in 1-4 tbsp of reserved cream, just enough to incorporate the remaining flour into the shaggy, wettish dough. Or, if the dough is too wet, add additional flour when shaping.
Lightly sprinkle a plastic cutting mat with some of the reserved flour. Turn the dough onto the mat and lightly sprinkle the top with more reserved flour. With floured hands (or using the flexible mat), fold the dough in half and pat it into a 1/3- to 1/2-inch-thick round, using only a little additional flour as needed. Continue folding and flouring (only as necessary) 1-2 more times.
Pat dough into a 1/2-inch-thick round for a normal biscuit, 3/4-inch-thick round for a tall biscuit or a 1-inch-thick round for a giant biscuit. Brush off any visible flour from the top. To cut biscuits, dip the 2-inch biscuit cutter into the reserved flour, and press into the outside edge of the round, cutting very close together. The scraps may be combined to make additional biscuits, although they will be tougher than the original batch.
Move the biscuits to the pan or baking sheet. Bake on the top rack of the oven for 10-14 minutes until light golden grown. After 6 minutes, rotate the pan and check to see if the bottoms are browning too quickly. If so, slide another baking pan underneath to add insulation and slow browning. Continue baking another 4-8 minutes until light golden brown. When biscuits are done, remove from oven and lightly brush with the butter. Turn the biscuits upside down on a plate to cool slightly. Serve hot, right-side-up.