I had the honor last week of conducting an intensive, three-day course on the upper floors at ICE, the latest in a long-running series known as the Center for Advanced Pastry Studies. The program – CAPS, for short – was initiated several years ago by pastry and baking instructor Michelle Tampakis, and the long list of illustrious pastry chefs who have brought their expertise to ICE in the past includes heavy hitters like Olivier Bajard, Laurent Branlard, Stephane Glacier, En-Ming Hsu, Michael Joy, Elisa Strauss, and Stephane Treand.

The CAPS program has become a unique and valuable resource not just for our students, faculty, and alumni, but for the greater community of New York City pastry chefs. As special guest instructors, the invited chefs are able to focus in on their respective specialties – cakes, candies, sugar, chocolate, plated desserts – over the span of some twenty hours of hands-on instruction to a small group of working pastry chefs. Funny thing, Chef Tampakis invited me to create a class nearly a year ago, long before I ever knew that I would join the ICE staff as Creative Director. Though I have taught similar classes elsewhere around the country, it felt great to share my tips and techniques on my new ‘home turf.’

The theme for my course centered on contemporary plated desserts, and we jumped right into things on the first day with two pre-desserts – smaller, lighter courses that typically precede more complex sweets. Beginning with a yogurt panna cotta, the students were exposed to hydrocolloids and the bright but intense flavor combination of basil, rhubarb, and fig. Next I sought to rethink a classic pastry preparation – pate à choux – by incorporating a layer of crunchy sablée, elderflower mousseline, and a liquid-center sphere of apricot. I demonstrated each component and presented the final plating just before our lunch break, and in the afternoon I let the students loose to prepare the recipes on their own.

The flavors were amplified on the second day with desserts that introduced combinations both novel and familiar. Spiced parsnip cake (think carrot cake, but earthier) was paired with slow-roasted pineapple and a light goat cheese cream. None of the students had ever worked parsnip into dessert, so I briefly deviated from syllabus to demonstrate its versatility by whipping up parsnip noodles and a freestanding crème brulée set with agar. Apple and cinnamon were next, in the form of oven-baked apple confit and cinnamon caramel parfait, accented by red wine caramel and a thin crunchy crèpe dentelle.

With the third and final day came chocolate. In a dessert inspired by a visit to the cocoa plantations of the Dominican Republic, I paired a dense dark chocolate cremeux with coconut sorbet, lime meringue, and caviar-like pearls of mango. Conventional gianduja – the Italian delicacy combining chocolate and roasted hazelnut – was reimagined with black sesame paste and lightened into a mousse. This second dessert also featured a black sesame sponge cake that is ‘baked’ in a microwave, in addition to crunchy caramelized rice and mandarin sorbet. With some time to spare, I was able to share a few modernist petit fours utilizing peanut butter powder, a citrus fluid gel, and roasted white chocolate.

I love teaching in this kind of format and being able to spend that little extra time on subjects like structure and composition of ingredients, or the methods pastry chefs use to formulate ice creams and sorbets. And because the students themselves are working in their own real-world environments, I like to emphasize how these techniques can easily be applied into any kitchen. And best of all, being immersed in pastry for three days creates an exchange of information and an ongoing dialog that doesn’t end when the class is finished.

I can’t wait for the next CAPS session in November, when Jerome Landrieu from the Barry-Callebaut Chocolate Academy in Chicago will visit ICE to share his unique vision of chocolate.

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The halls of ICE have smelled like bread all week long with Chef Ciril Hitz of Breadhitz here teaching an artisan bread class. This 3-day hands-on workshop was part of our Center for Advanced Pastry Studies (CAPS) series and Chef Hitz took students on a comprehensive baking tour focusing on everything from the classic baguette to the complex world of sourdough breads.

The students made sweet variations for breakfast, brunch and beyond while also enhancing traditional bread baskets for all occasions. The best part was once all of the breads were baked at the end of each day, Chef Hitz showed off his streamlined approach to baking by highlighting the best of the bunch and what could have been approved. This allowed the students to not only learn how to bake bread, but how to learn from mistakes and perfect for next time.

Enjoy these photos from their week in the kitchen.

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As important as culinary innovation may be, it is also important to recognize the classic desserts that place such new ideas in context. Michael Laiskonis, creative director at ICE held a class on Friday where iconic dishes were studied, deconstructed and rearranged with new flavor combinations and presentations as homage to the original.

The recipes included Tarte Tropezienne, Paris-Brest, Saint-Honoré, Financier, and Crème Brulée. The four hour class was action packed with students mixing, baking, tasting and plating. To see more classes from Michael Laiskonis, check out our schedule and see below for some eye candy from Friday’s class. Enjoy!

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This week, students had the opportunity to cook with Master Chocolatier and Executive Pastry Chef, Jean Marie Auboine as part of the Center for Advanced Pastry Studies (CAPS) series here at ICE. This is an ongoing program of continuing education courses for working pastry and baking professionals taught by visiting chefs and pastry artists from around the world.

Auboine’s shop is based in Las Vegas, though he teaches and consults all over the world. For some background, he was a finalist Meilleur Ouvrier de France Chocolatier 2007, named “Best Chef of the Year” from Mexico’s Vatel Club in 2008, won 5th place in the 2005 World Chocolate Masters and he was named “Best Pastry Chef of the Year” by France’s respected Champèrard Guide in 2003. His mastery in chocolate at the 2005 American Chocolate Masters secured him a first-place victory and an invitation to participate in the World Chocolate Masters in Paris, where he earned the competition’s coveted Press Award.

Thrilled to work with such a renowned pastry chef, the students learned unique techniques ranging from sugar pulling to achieving temperatures for perfected caramel. They made an assortment of delicious treats such as praline paste, chocolate bars, soft salty caramels, flavored marshmallows, gummy worms and sugar candies. When discussing what they learned over the course, the students were all in agreement that learning the science behind sugar was the most fascinating.  As was learning from the French!

Check out some of their work: More…

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ICE’s Center for Advanced Pastry Studies, led by Director Michelle Tampakis, is an incredibly unique program that brings the world’s leading pastry chefs to teach multi-day workshop classes for working pastry and baking professionals, taught by visiting chefs and pastry artists from around the world. Courses are two to three days in duration and are limited to 14 students.

Earlier this week, ICE alum Michelle Bommarito traveled from Michigan to teach one of these classes. In addition to frequently being seen on Food Network Challenge, she was named one of the Top Ten Cake Artists for 2011 by Dessert Professional magazine. While visiting, she made ICE’s kitchens her workshop to teachi the professional students a variety of techniques for decorating and sculpting cakes. Over the course of three days, the students made elegant sculpted tiered cakes, a boutique-style shopping bag cake of their own design, and a variety of cupcakes as well. More…

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From Monday through Wednesday this week, ICE’s pastry kitchens were home to one of the world’s top pastry chefs, Vincent Pilon, as he worked with professional-level students in a Center for Advanced Pastry Studies (CAPS@ICE) class on working with chocolate.

As Executive Pastry Chef of the Mandalay Resort and Casino in Las Vegas, Chef Pilon has had the opportunity to perfect the creation of thousands of chocolate sculptures; both for banquet service and for the many competitions he has participated in and won. The three-day class focused on chocolate techniques to create an amenity for VIP service, along with artistic bonbons. Check out the photos for a glimpse of the fine handiwork of the pastry chefs and Pilon. More…

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ICE Chef Instructor Michelle Tampakis just returned from the first ever Pastry Live weekend in Atlanta, GA. Pastry chefs from all over the world gathered together to celebrate their art and craft. The three-day conference was packed with appearances from some of the world’s most accomplished pastry chefs in seminars and competitions.

Chef Michelle was a judge for The National Showpiece Championship. To qualify for the competition, each team leader must have received either a medal or best in show at a major pastry competition, making it truly a competition for the best of the best. Teams were given six hours to prepare their entries. But unlike other competitions, the chefs could only use the resources given to them, leveling the playing field for chefs who may not have access to the same costly supplies and equipment of other chefs. By reducing the financial burden on the chefs, the event was a unique opportunity for amazing pastry chefs to demonstrate their skills and highlight their creativity. More…

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Yesterday, Stephane Treand, a world champion pastry artist wrapped up a special class at the Institute of Culinary Education to teach pastry professionals about working with different forms of sugar to create elaborate showpieces. The class worked with both poured sugar and pastillage to create bright, colorful pieces with intricate details. Treand’s specialty involves using an airbrush to create detailed faces on sugar and chocolate. His work with these sweet materials won him the gold medal at the National Pastry Team Championship in 2007 and the World Pastry Championship in 2008. He was awarded the Meilleur Ouvrier de France (M.O.F.) in 2004. He was also named one of the Top Ten Pastry Chefs in 2007 and 2008 by Pastry Art & Design.

From Monday through Wednesday, ICE’s pastry kitchens were Treand’s workshop as he helped professional-level students in a Center for Advanced Pastry Studies (CAPS@ICE) class learn how to make and decorate elaborate chocolate showpieces. More…

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As part of ICE’s Center for Advanced Pastry Studies, ICE alum Elisa Strauss returned to ICE this week to teach a class on sculpted cakes. Strauss is the designer at Confetti Cakes, famed for their detailed, beautiful shaped cakes. Since completing ICE’s Pastry & Baking Arts program, Strauss’s inventive and original cakes have earned her recognition from dozens of magazines and TV shows. Her creations have appeared on the Today show, Sex and the City, The View and Martha. She has also competed several times on Food Network Challenge, including the “Extreme Cake Challenge” where she won the grand prize.

Every student in the class made a handbag cake over a three-day period. Open only to pastry professional, the class is a chance for them to learn new skills to add to their repertoire. Elisa walked them through the fundamentals of making any sculpted cake that is both structural sound and beautiful. In addition to carving their cakes, they also made gumpaste decorations, giving them a chance to personalize their magnificent cakes. Check out the photos! More…

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This weekend, ICE Chef Instructor Michelle Tampakis was invited by the New Mexico Museum of Natural History Foundation to be a judge at their 19th Annual Chocolate Fantasy in Albuquerque.

The event featured 17 contestants in three divisions, Chocolatiers, Restaurant/Caterers and Schools. Each contestant had to present a showpiece, and 300 candy pieces for sampling. The theme of the event was The Pride of the Serengeti, and all showpieces reflected some African motif.

Chef Michelle and her fellow judges, Kerry Vincent of Food Network Challenge, Paul Edward of Chef Rubber and Mary Jo Stojak of the Fine Chocolate Industry Association, carefully examined each of the contestant’s work. They named Darci Rochau, pastry chef from the Hyatt Tamaya Resort & Spa. Chef Michelle was so impressed with her work, that she recommended the winner attend our upcoming chocolate showpiece class with Vincent Pilon in ICE’s Center for Advanced Pastry Studies (CAPS@ICE).

The evening culminated in a gala dinner and silent auction for 800 guests. This fundraiser generated over $90,000 to benefit the Museum Foundation and their work to further the cultural, educational and scientific programs of the museum.

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